Part 1 - Exploring Ziro Valley and stumbling upon a whole new World

The road to Ziro valley became an unexpected adventure

As December approached, I began planning my annual journey, this time to the northeast of India—a region that had long beckoned me with its mysteries. Originally, I planned to visit Meghalaya after attending the Hornbill Festival in Kohima and exploring Majuli in Assam. But fate, as always, had its surprises!

A casual conversation with friends changed everything. One of them, fresh from Ziro, insisted it was a destination I couldn’t miss, even sharing contacts for a stay. Intrigued by tales of the valley’s unique culture and tranquil beauty, I decided to risk the spontaneity.

With time slipping through my fingers, I hastily booked a train to Naharlagun, the gateway to Ziro. Upon arrival in Arunachal Pradesh, I realized I had forgotten a crucial detail—the Inner Line Permit (ILP). Luckily, I managed to secure it quickly. After a bumpy Sumo ride and an unintended six-kilometer detour on foot, I finally reached Hong Basti by noon. Here, among the Apatani people, awaited days steeped in culture, stories, and the timeless rhythm of the valley.

Hong basti’s warm embrace: A memorable arrival

My time in Ziro Valley was made even more memorable thanks to Narang Yamyang, a gracious Apatani woman who hosted me in Hong basti. From the moment I arrived, I was enveloped in her warmth and hospitality. Her kindness immediately put me at ease, and before long, I settled into her bamboo home, eager to discover more about her life and the Apatani culture.

Managing her household, caring for her in-laws, and tending to her fields, Yamyang's life was demanding. Yet, she always found the energy to make me feel at home, offering comfort and hospitality that was truly humbling. Her bamboo house, raised several feet off the ground—a practical design to protect against floods and pests—was a testament to the Apatani's resourcefulness and deep connection with nature. She prepared simple yet nourishing meals tailored to my vegetarian preferences, even adjusting her own eating habits by abstaining from meat during my stay. It was a small gesture, but it spoke volumes about her adaptability and thoughtfulness. With her kitchen garden providing daily vegetables, and the Apatani’s own grain harvest, Yamyang didn’t need to visit the grocery store.

Yamyang’s generosity extended beyond meals. She welcomed me into her daily routine, offering a window into the harmonious way the Apatani people live with the land. One afternoon, she took me to her family’s bamboo forest, where she showed me how to cut and carry bamboo with a head strap—a skill that, while effortless for her, proved much more challenging for me. This task, like many others in the valley, reflected the Apatani’s deep understanding of their environment.

Beyond her domestic responsibilities, Yamyang played an active role in the community’s agricultural practices. As a woman deeply involved in the labor-intensive process of wet rice cultivation, she exemplified the Apatani ethos of hard work, sustainability, and communal harmony. Yamyang was not just a caretaker but also a pillar of the community.

A glimpse of Apatani tradition and culture

In Ziro, I quickly learned that the gaon burah (village headman) and gaon buri (village headwoman) are more than just leaders—they are the heart of the community. The gaon burah, as the village headman, upholds traditions and resolves disputes, while the gaon buri ensures the well-being of families, preserving harmony within the village.

Gaon burah: The village headman

The gaon burah is the village's leader, judge, and mediator. He presides over Bulyang, where decisions about land, conflict, and welfare are made. His authority is final, and his judgment is deeply respected, making him the pillar of the community.

Gaon buri: The village headwoman

The gaon buri complements the gaon burah, focusing on women’s and family matters. Though her influence may not always be seen in public ceremonies, she is vital in maintaining social harmony, ensuring that the village remains united and balanced.

The evolving roles

As modernization, education, and outside influences began shaping life in Ziro, I saw how the gaon burah and gaon buri adapted, ensuring that their community’s values remained strong. Despite the changes, these leaders stood firm, guarding the heart of Apatani culture.

In today’s world, their roles have expanded. They now work closely with government officials, NGOs, and others, representing the village in crucial negotiations. While they advocate for progress, they protect the core values of the Apatani people, ensuring their rights are upheld. Their wisdom not only preserves the cultural legacy of Ziro Valley but ensures its continuity for future generations.

A walk through Apatani fields and bamboo forests

As I walked through fields framed by bamboo houses and dense forests, I marveled at the ingenious water management systems that transform this picturesque valley into a thriving agricultural haven.

I learned about the Apatani people’s agricultural practices, which have long been admired for their sustainability and efficiency. The Apatani are expert farmers, cultivating rice and fish in an integrated system unique to the region. Their paddy fields, known as Aji, are carefully maintained to ensure the land remains fertile year after year.They have also crafted a detailed water management system, using canals to irrigate both their fields and fish ponds. This not only provides a steady food source but also maintains the ecological balance in the valley.

Alongside their farming expertise, the Apatani are skilled artisans, with bamboo playing a central role in their daily life. Each family owns a patch of land just outside the village where bamboo is grown for everything from construction to everyday items. Yamyang demonstrated how to shape bamboo into spoons and forks with such precision that it left me amazed. Watching her work, I couldn’t help but admire the resourcefulness and ingenuity that define the Apatani way of life.

Faces and stories of the Apatani women

The Apatani women’s knowledge of the land and their sustainable practices have preserved the valley’s fragile ecosystem. Their stories intrigued me most, particularly their now-fading traditions of facial tattoos and nose plugs—symbols of identity rooted in history but receding with time. In the next part, I have shared some stories about the amazing women I had the chance to meet.