Discovering the mystique of Kulasai Dasara
In recent years, I’ve adopted a travel philosophy that’s simple and quite effective. While I plan logistics, I skip fixed and detailed itineraries. This approach allows me to experience the journey itself guiding my experiences without preconceived notions, letting the surprises of the place unfold naturally.
With this mindset, I booked my train journey and accommodation with the help of a friend to visit Tiruchendur for the Kulasai Dasara (Dussehra) celebrations. I arrived in Tiruchendur on October 10, 2024, around noon and my first visit was to the iconic Lord Subramanya Temple, before heading to Kulasai, about a 30-minute ride away.
True to my practice, I explored without my camera initially, wandering through the vibrant streets, interacting with locals and letting the atmosphere sink in. I visited the temple and had a darshan of Goddess Mutharamman, observed the rituals, and mingled with the crowd. The energy of the place was electrifying, with devotees fulfilling vows and performing elaborate rituals.
The vibrant legacy of Kulasai Dasara
Kulasai Dasara, celebrated at the Sri Mutharamman Temple in the small town of Kulasekharapatnam, near Tiruchendur in Tamil Nadu, is no ordinary festival. It is said to be the second-largest Dasara celebration in India, after Mysuru Dasara, drawing over a million devotees. Although both Kulasai Dasara and Mysuru Dasara celebrate the triumph of good over evil, they differ in their unique rituals and traditions.
The Mysuru Dasara honors Goddess Chamundeshwari with a vibrant display of Karnataka's cultural heritage including illumination of the palace, cultural performances and the highlight, Jamboo Savari, a grand procession featuring elephants that have been specially trained. On the other hand, Kulasai Dasara is a celebration of the raw form where devotees transform into deities like Kali and offer prayers to Mutharamman, the presiding deity.
The temple, over 300 years old, becomes the heart of this ten-day celebration, which begins on Navaratri and culminates on the tenth day—Dasara, marking the triumph over the demon Mahishasura/Magisasuran.
The story goes that the town's people, once helpless against the cruelty of Mahishasura, turned to their Goddess for protection. In response, a miraculous baby girl named Lalithambika/Lalithambigai was born, empowered by the Goddess herself. Within just nine days—the span of Navaratri—the baby transformed into a full-grown woman through divine power.
On the tenth day, she became Annai Parasakthi Lalithambigai, a symbol of unmatched strength, determined to rid the world of evil. With fierce determination, she defeated Mahishasura, marking this day as the Kulasai Dasara celebration.
Devotees fulfill their vows by dressing as various deities, embodying divine forms as an offering to the goddess. These transformations often involve elaborate costumes, makeup, and rituals, making Kulasai Dasara a unique blend of mythology and art. The streets of Kulasai become a canvas of colors, traditions, and spirituality. From mythological characters to animals and celestial beings, the creativity on display is awe-inspiring. The festival reflects a deep-rooted cultural belief that the goddess's blessings bring prosperity and protection to her devotees.
Observing, immersing, capturing, and creating
I generally follow a routine that has become integral to my creative process that feels natural and fulfilling. On the first day, I observe and absorb. This lets me connect with the environment without the distraction of my camera and open up to the present. When I start photographing, the first set of frames are shaped by lingering impressions from my prior research, as my mind works to clear the traces of images I've seen before. Once those initial ideas are exhausted—ideas that won’t make it to my keepers—I move into my favorite phase. It's when my mind feels like there's nothing more to capture, and I begin to connect at a different level beyond what eyes see, experimenting with creative perspectives and techniques, crafting a narrative that's uniquely mine. At this stage, the camera feels like an extension of myself, capturing my thoughts and interactions as they come to life.
Having completed the first set of photographs, I let go, unburdening myself. I sank into the embrace of the beach, where the horizon stretched endlessly, and waves whispered their eternal rhythm.
The salty breeze caressed my face, as the ocean’s song filled the air. Amidst this serene symphony, I listened to "Kaanada Kadalige" by G.S. Shivarudrappa, and "Yaava Mohana Murali" by M. Gopalakrishna Adiga followed, its words flowing like waves and melody weaving dreams into the twilight. The world paused, and I felt one with the ocean— its vastness, its depth, and its quiet, infinite poetry.
The next day, on Mahanavami, the ninth day of Dasara, my creative process began as I started early and spent the day capturing the essence of Kulasai Dasara in my point of view. I walked through the streets, photographed the temple rituals, and ventured to the nearby beach, where villagers dressed as deities performed their rituals. The beach was a hub of activity. Despite the challenge of navigating a crowded space teeming with hundreds of photographers, I was one of them 🙂, I managed to capture a few frames that truly resonated with my creative vision.
This was also my first outing with a 35mm analog camera, and I eagerly tried my hand at using it. The experience of manually metering the light, followed by the satisfying sound of cranking the film and the click of the shutter, was truly exhilarating and unforgettable!
Here are a few frames I captured—hope they bring you as much joy as I felt while creating them!
Meeting remarkable people
On October 12th, Vijaya Dashami, the climax of the festival, an unexpected encounter elevated my experience making this visit truly special. Traveling from Tiruchendur to Kulasai early in the morning at 5am, the bus was packed, and only one seat remained vacant in the last row. A kind stranger offered me that seat, and I gladly accepted. As the journey progressed, I noticed the group around me conversing in Tamil, although I am not fluent in speaking I understand the language quite well and can converse a little. Eventually, one of them, Mr. Bharathi turned to me and started a conversation.
He was curious about where I was from and what had brought me there. To my surprise, he revealed that he was in Kulasai to perform a ritual, fulfilling a wish through the disguise of Karuppusamy. What struck me most was how serendipitous this meeting felt—he had met Balamurugan during a previous visit, just as he had met me now, and they had become friends. He warmly invited me to join them, photograph their rituals, and witness their journey. This opportunity aligned perfectly with my intention to not just capture the event but also to immerse myself in the lives of the locals, understanding their traditions, motivations, and stories. While I hadn’t actively sought out this kind of connection, it came to me effortlessly, as if meant to be.
Upon reaching Kulasai we walked 5kms to reach the house that Balamurugan rented for those few days. Bala’s family, a group of ten, had traveled from Tuticorin to participate in the festivities. This family had been observing the sacred practice of wearing mala (wreath) and culminating in their performance on the final days of the event.
Their hospitality was heartwarming. They invited me to have lunch with them, and after a meal filled with camaraderie, I decided to explore the surroundings. I spent the afternoon taking photographs of the vibrant scenes, returning in the evening to document their preparations.
Once I returned, Bala introduced me to his Uncle, Jayaram, the person who was performing the central character, Devi Lalithambigai. Read part 2 where I chat with Jayaram about his thought process, his beliefs and what and how feels during the transformation.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this blog are personal and based on my experiences during the visit. They are not intended to represent or generalize the beliefs, traditions, or practices
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