Jayaram's journey: Becoming one with the Goddess
After a short outing to do some street photography, Bala introduced me to his uncle, Jayaram, who was performing the central role of Devi Lalithambigai. Intrigued by his story, I felt an immediate pull to understand his journey, which had taken him from Vizag to Tuticorin five years ago. Jayaram kindly agreed to have a detailed conversation with me later that night.
As Jayaram prepared to embody Lalithambigai, I had the privilege of documenting every stage of his transformation. The process began at 4 PM, and over the next two hours, from applying makeup to donning the elaborate costume and the careful rituals, all came together to create the goddess. I witnessed a remarkable metamorphosis—not just in his appearance, but in his spirit, from an ordinary man to someone embodying the goddess.
A sacred walk: Pilgrims and blessings
Accompanying Jayaram on his nearly three-kilometer walk to the temple was an unforgettable experience. The atmosphere shifted as he connected with the locals along the way, their reverence evident in their interactions. I was touched by the way Jayaram connected with the people around him, offering blessings to those with health, marriage, or financial issues. At the temple, his performance was mesmerizing. The rituals, the energy, and the way he seemed to channel the goddess were both exhilarating and humbling.
Later, we continued to the beach, where he performed once more amidst the lively crowd. I spent the day capturing the preparations and rituals—watching devotees transform into their divine forms, and the long walk to the temple was a beautiful journey. It was late when we finally returned. Over dinner with his family, Jayaram shared his personal journey, his beliefs, and the deeper significance of his transformation.
The story of Mutharaman
Jayaram explained the significance of the Kulasai Mutharamman Temple, where the divine couple—Shiva and Parvati—are worshipped together, with distinct features like canines and a moustache. He explains that the duo once appeared as mala (wreath) sellers during a famine and used their knowledge of herbal remedies to heal the sick. The grateful villagers invited them to stay back in their village, and built the temple to honor them. From then on, people come to the temple to seek blessings for various struggles, hoping that the goddess will bring relief, him being one of those.
Jayaram’s beliefs, devotion and rituals
Jayaram recounted how he moved from Vizag to Tuticorin five years ago. His wife had been diagnosed with a life-threatening illness and nothing seemed to help. It was only when they visited the Mutharamman Temple and met a person in Kali vesha (the attire/disguise) that things started to change. Following the advice of that possessed individual, Jayaram began coming to the temple during Dasara in Kali vesha each year, along with a group of 30-40 others who take on various roles like Kali, Karuppusamy, and Lalithambigai. This practice has been part of his life for the last 14 years. Over the years, he has seen the power of faith transform lives, including his own, as his mother’s health improved after visiting the temple.
Jayaram’s devotion runs deep. He spoke about the strict rituals that come with wearing the sacred mala—no non-vegetarian food, no physical intimacy, no soap baths, just turmeric and kumkum for purification. The routine is disciplined, including waking up at 4 am, bathing, and eating only one meal a day. He says that some even eat neem leaves with green chillies, hoping to become more attuned to the goddess.
Living the role of the Goddess
When Jayaram wears the vesha of Devi Lalithambigai, he feels a deep connection to the goddess. He explained his intent when performing in this role: “The first thing I want to do is feed everyone who comes to Kulasai. I want to make sure no one leaves hungry.” making sure pilgrims are taken care of, and he goes door-to-door collecting donations for the temple’s funds and feeding pilgrims.
Jayaram explained how he wears specific colors for different tasks. When he roams the village, he wears black and red, while blue is his color for temple visits. His goal is to visit everyone in the village, learn about their problems, and try to help. He described the emotional connection he feels with the people: “When I visit them, I am not just a man in costume—I am the goddess in human form.”
He shared stories of people who came to him with personal struggles—health issues, fertility concerns, marriage problems—and how he had blessed them, only to see their lives improve. One of those was about a person who had been cheated of Rs. 6 lakhs in a business deal and had come to Kulasai seeking the goddess’s intervention. He had promised that if he got his money back, he would donate Rs. 2 lakhs to the goddess. Jayaram, as Lalithambigai, blessed him assuring him of getting his money back, and advised him not to make such a grand donation. Instead, suggested that he buy a mala worth just 1,000 rupees and offer it to the goddess as a more humble offering. A few weeks later, that person recovered Rs. 3.5 lakhs back. Jayaram firmly believes that the rest will follow, further strengthening his faith in the goddess.
The rituals of mala removal
A significant part of the festival is the removal of the mala, which marks the end of the spiritual transformation. For a week after Dasara, devotees maintain a strict diet and refrain from non-vegetarian food. After performing a pooja at the temple and offering sweet Pongal, they return to their normal lives, signifying the completion of their devotion and the renewal of their spiritual journey.
The Mahishasura Samhara ritual
The day culminated in the breathtaking Mahishasura Samhara ritual, a highlight of Kulasai Dasara, reenacting Goddess Durga's victory over Mahishasura. Held at the temple grounds, this dramatic performance drew thousands of devotees, eager to witness the symbolic triumph of good over evil. The climax, where the goddess struck down Mahishasura, was met with thunderous applause and fervent prayers, creating an atmosphere charged with energy and devotion. For the devotees, this ritual embodies their struggles and the hope for divine intervention.
Reflections: A night under the stars
As the night drew to a close, Bharathi and I found ourselves without a place to stay, so we slept on the beach under the open sky. The sound of the waves lapping at our feet as we fell asleep and waking up to a breathtaking sunrise the next morning was a surreal experience. Both of us returned to Tiruchendur. As he continued to Chennai, I checked out of my hotel boarding a train back to Bengaluru.
Looking back: The unpredictable beauty of travel
This trip to Kulasai was more than just about photography. It was about connecting with people, understanding their lives, and immersing myself in a tradition so deeply tied to their faith. I'm grateful for the friendships I’ve made with Bharathi, Jayaram, and Balamurugan, and I left with not just photographs but experiences and stories that will stay with me forever.
This journey reminded me why I travel without fixed plans. Sometimes, the best stories unfold in the most unexpected ways, and the surprises along the way are the ones that stay with you long after you leave.
Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this blog are personal and based on my experiences during the visit. They are not intended to represent or generalize the beliefs, traditions, or practices.
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